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Thailand's first passenger boat to cross border points on the Mekong River is to be launched, promising smooth sailing for tourism.

 
The Mekong Delta moors near the scenic Pak Ou cave in Luang Prabang, Laos. PHOTOS BY NARISA LEELATHAWORNPANYA AND SUBIN KHEUNKAEW

The national flags of China, Laos, Burma and Thailand fluttered in the stern section of Mekong Delta as it made a recent engine-testing trip up the river from Chiang Saen district of Chiang Rai to Xishuangbanna in China's Yunnan province.

Once it starts full commercial service later this year, it will also ply the route between Chiang Rai's Chiang Khong district and Luang Prabang, a world heritage site in Laos.

The boat weighs 100 tonnes and can carry up to 120 passengers. It is propelled by two 350-horsepower engines.

Pagaimas Viera, owner of the brand-new boat and the chair of Maekhong Delta Travel Agency Co, said her vision was to build a passenger boat that could help change people's perceptions about leisure travel on the Mekong River. She said in the past few dared take a cruise there. The river, a natural boundary of many countries, was fraught with scary stories about thefts and the murder of travellers.

 
Pagaimas Viera, owner of the Mekong Delta, welcomes visitors before a cruise.
Geographically, sections of the river are treacherous, if not impossible, to navigate during the dry season when large boulders are exposed by a sharp ebb in water levels.

Miss Pagaimas said the Mekong, in fact, holds countless beauties worth exploring. It cuts across diverse cradles of cultures and much of its terrain is unspoiled. She expects the river cruise to gain popularity as it provides a laid-back way of travelling.

Since the transport ministers of China, Thailand, Burma and Laos sealed an agreement on commercial boat services in 2001, Chinese, Lao and Burmese cargo and shuttle boats have dominated the river. Although there are some Thai-registered boats they are mostly small long-tailed boats carrying passengers on short trips.

Miss Pagaimas said the Mekong Delta, the company's only passenger boat, would take two days to sail to Xishuangbanna, with a night's stop in Laos.

The boat does not provide sleeping berths. However, it has amenities and entertainment features, including karaoke, on board.

Safety is also a priority as waters in the Mekong can be very rough. It requires a steady hand for skippers to steer boats out of danger from underwater rocks that can put boats out of action for months.

The 20 million baht Mekong Delta has a Chinese engineer, while its captains and navigators are mainly from Laos and China. Services on board are provided by Thai, Lao, Burmese and Chinese staff.

Tourists can choose to take a round trip on the boat or travel by road through Huay Xai and Boten in Laos and Mohan in China to Xishuangbanna. Those taking the road option can board the boat for the return trip.

Sailing against the tide upstream to Xishuangbanna takes two days, twice as long as the downstream journey.

Tour boats to southern China have been dominated mainly by Chinese vessels, including those modified from cargo boats. Boat trips to Laos have been provided by Lao passenger boats.

Miss Pagaimas said the Mekong Delta was undergoing a trial run to find out its strong and weak points.

 
The Mekong Delta plies its way along Mekong River. Tourism in the region is predicted to flourish.

She believes Mekong River tourism, particularly on the Chiang Rai-Xishuangbanna route, has bright prospects and plenty of room to grow.

Sumet Saengnimnual, an inspector-general of the Interior Ministry and former governor of Chiang Rai, said demand for boat tours should rise because of the river's scenic beauty. More tourism-related facilities were being developed along the river.

Atiruj Jamroon, Chiang Rai's provincial harbour master, said the number of tour boats on the river would certainly climb.

He predicted 10 million Chinese tourists would visit the upper North of Thailand annually in the not-too-distant future.

Chiang Saen port in Chiang Rai serves only tour boats, while a new port is being built about 10 kilometres away in Ban Sop Kok village, near the end of the Kok River, to serve cargo boats.

Miss Qinyan, the managing director of Xishuangbanna Golden Triangle Tour and Shipping Co, said Chiang Mai was a popular destination for Chinese visitors. Although a road has been completed from Xishuangbanna to Thailand through Laos, it would not affect boat tours.

She said her company's six tour boats were not enough to cater to the high demand from tourists.

Three's good company braving the river
 
Lao captain Janpeng Wisaipol, right, steers the boat. Chinese captain Dao (distant, wearing cap) waits for his turn to take control when the boat enters Chinese waters.

Three people of different nationalities oversee the passenger boat Mekong Delta on its journey along the Mekong River.

Lao captain Janpeng Wisaipol, Chinese captain Dao and Thai ship mechanic Arin Maitreen help run the passenger boat service.

It is the first time that Mr Janpeng, a 56-year-old resident of Luang Prabang, has taken charge of the tourist ship.

His background as a boat boy in the Mekong River from the age of 12 and his experience in running large cargo ships along the river give him confidence.

"We have to beat them," said Mr Janpeng, referring to various conditions he has countered on the river, ranging from strong currents to whirlpools.

Mr Janpeng has no degree in navigation but his decades of experience in helmsmanship are enough to earn him a professional boat driver's licence.

His school is the Mekong River as he remembers every bend and turn in the waters, which also serve as a natural border line between several countries.

"But the Mekong has changed a lot," he said. "Previously, we never ran into problems with shallow water, but now the water often recedes," he said.

However, he can still run the Mekong Delta safely, thanks also to Mr Dao and Mr Arin.

Unlike Mr Janpeng, Mr Dao went to a naval academy in China. He and Mr Janpeng work together to helm the boat. There are some danger areas in the river such as the Pa Tang section where boats have sunk. Utmost care, together with skills and knowledge, is crucial to ensure safety.

The journey between Chiang Rai and southern China takes two days because the boat runs against the current, Mr Dao said.

Mr Arin's duty is to check the boat's engine. The boat must be in tip-top condition as it negotiates rough waters."I've learned from the Lao people for almost five years, and as a result I know how to withstand the force of the Mekong River," said Mr Arin. _ Naowarat Suksamran

http://www.bangkokpost.com/travel/localtrips/206155/traversing-borders-sailing-the-mekong

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http://www.maekhongtravel.com/